Muslim designer Anniesa Hasibuan’s show was also one of the first by an Indonesian at the prestigious annual event.
At a time when what Muslim women choose to wear is causing intense debate, many are calling Hasibuan’s move a historic moment in bringing the hijab into the mainstream.
The Islamic veil across Europe
Inspired by her hometown Jakarta, Hasibuan presented trousers, flowing tunic and gowns, in luxurious fabrics and detailed embroidery, all worn with hijabs.
A relative newcomer, 30-year-old Hasibuan received a standing ovation at the end of her show earlier this week.
“Behind the success of a show there is a great team that was strong and sturdy when it was hit by dissent,” she wrote on Instagram. “And we can handle it.”
Melanie Elturk, chief executive of Haute Hijab – a US brand selling hijabs and modest fashion – was at the show.
“I believe fashion is one of the outlets in which we can start that cultural shift in today’s society to normalize hijab in America so as to break down
If you saw me walking down the street in the late Nineties, you might have dubbed me a fashion disaster. Sporting a gypsy skirt from Camden market, an oversized top, clumpy black shoes and a drab scarf, I was not fly. Fashion wasn’t on my radar, but I wasn’t on its either.
As a Muslim girl who wanted to wear more modest clothing than the often skimpy Miss Selfridge dresses many school friends were wearing, I wasn’t exactly spoilt for choice. When I decided to wear a hijab aged 18 in accordance with my faith, I only had two headscarves; both were black and boring. A few years later, I managed to find a printed one from Tie Rack, but it resembled something the Queen would wear while driving a Defender, rather than a 21-year-old girl trying to look cool. But I’ve come a long way since, and more to the point, so has the entire fashion market.
Market like never before. Last month, Dolce & Gabbana launched a range of luxury hijabs and abayas [long loose robe-like dresses],
As any experienced budget-conscious shopper can tell you, the practice of returning items of clothing is an art form, especially now that online shopping has made it easier than ever to receive clothes (but more annoying than ever to return them). But while most of us are struggling just to keep all of our receipts in order, clearly, there is some type of returns guru to be found amongst us meager shopping mortals. According to a recent Reddit post from a user (and likely Gap employee), it’s possible to use some kind of Jedi mind tricks to get the Gap to accept items (with tags!) that were last produced nearly two decades ago.
In the photo posted to the r/Funny subreddit by user thevintagekid, a XL red button-down shirt, priced at a very reasonable $24.50, with a green and plaid corduroy vest over the top is shown hanging from a hanger next to an incensed sign from upper management of Gap, inquiring, “Who on Earth accepted this as a return?!?!?! This item is from the summer of 2000! That was almost 17 years ago! Our return policy is 45 days!
Good things come in pairs. Be it buses, the queue to Noah’s Ark, or lists of analogies: we’re led to believe that life is all about matches. Which, as anyone who’s suffered through one working iPod earbud knows, is true.
And the matching mantra seems to be affecting our wardrobes. After years of being told to mix it up and avoid one block ensemble, the likes of Wooyungmi, Berthold and Versace sent fully coordinated looks down the SS16 runways – we’re talking outfits in matching violet shades, floral two-pieces and monochrome shorts-and-shirt sets.
Granted, few men have the balls (or the desire) to rock Milan’s more outlandish trends, but the high street has diluted the co-ord into a more palatable form. And there are plenty of choices. However, that doesn’t make the perfect match easy to wear. As with all left-field trends, there’s a margin for error. Here’s how to navigate it.
Play By rules
While there are rules to follow with co-ords, they’re more straightforward than you’d think. “There are several settings in which co-ords will flourish or flounder,” explains Kasia Katner, stylist at Thread. “And the secret is to know your setting
Accessories really come into their own in the warmer spring and summer months; they’re the finishing touches to any outfit. But when your outfit consists of a T-shirt and shorts, sometimes they’re the only touches that you can add, at least without spontaneously combusting.
Thankfully, there are other ways to look fire in the heat: or more specifically for this season, four of them, which we’ve identified here. (You could even wear all of them at the same time without overheating, if you’re so inclined.) What’s more, these additions are also a useful and affordable – well, in most cases – way to freshen up your wardrobe without forking out for a whole new one.
If you’ve got an eye for up-to-the-minute details, then these are the details that you should have your eye on for SS16. Because we’re all about seasonal ingredients.
Backpacks have been a carryover trend for the past couple of seasons. But for SS16, they’re holding an even higher status.
“We’re seeing really strong sales of what we’ve dubbed the ‘boardroom backpack’,” says Damien Paul, head of menswear at MATCHESFASHION.com. “Backpacks have been one of our strongest bag
As women’s fashion week kicks off in London, there’s fresh talk of the clunkiness of the fashion calendar in a digital world, the exorbitant expense of traditional fashion shows and the difficulty of keeping up with an industry that’s in flux.
But as much as fashion’s changing, there’s still one constant: trends. Sure, see-now, buy-now strategies (as adopted by big-money brands like Burberry and Ralph Lauren) and the ever-expanding high street (and its ability to turn product from concept to reality in just a couple of weeks) might seem like forces killing off trends’ ‘bedding-in’ time, but the reality is, no matter how much product we’re flogged, no matter if it’s debuted on a runway or in a sponsored slot on a celebrity’s Instagram, trends will still stick – and nowhere more so than in menswear (spot some of the familiar trends from the last couple of seasons below).
Here’s what you need to be across this season:
Key Fabric : Shearling
We’ve lost count the number of times shearling has topped trend lists in recent seasons. Its continued popularity this autumn/winter is at least in part due to the slow trajectory of men’s
Denim’s not dead. (Not that you’d know it from the headlines.) Despite some media outlets sounding the death knell for denim, global sales of jeans are actually on the rise. So although some statistics – like a 30 per cent fall in Levi’s revenue over a couple of decades (as highlighted by this Bloomberg report late last year) – might suggest we’re done with the original blue collar fabric, it’s simply not the case.
But denim is changing. Feeling the heat from athleisure’s blazing success, jeansmakers are changing tack, introducing stretch to iconic styles (Levi’s 501s is first in line for a refit) in an attempt to stop ceding ground to fashion’s current stretch-friendly, everything-elasticated approach.
Jeans might be adapting to trends, but they haven’t stopped trending. “There are two factors that ensure denim remains a core part of most men’s wardrobes,” says Damien Paul, head of menswear at MatchesFashion. “Firstly a pair of jeans is incredibly versatile, and there is a lot of choice in the market both at price point and in style. But secondly there is an incredible heritage to denim – jeans have been worn by icons like James Dean through to
As autumn lands, the usual suspects return to your wardrobe: a warmer coat, thicker chinos, wet-weather boots. Goose pimpled flesh aside, style isn’t compromised by plummeting mercury. The chill brings a new world of layering that is, arguably, better looking than our summer lovin’ months.
But as you pour cashmere atop merino wool, it’s easy to forget that the devil is in the detail. And if AW16’s key accessories are anything to go by, the mantra has never been truer.
This season, Christmas debt won’t be all that’s hanging from your neck. Gucci and Dior Homme stuck their necks out with an array of neckerchiefs, from Catholic school bows to 1960s cravats and deconstructed ties.
An oversized pussy bow works at an Oscar Wilde convention, less so at your Christmas do. Continental ties – a piece of black silk that crosses over at the front – are a strong midpoint between runways and realism, says Alice Watt, stylist at Thread. It’s a lesser-spotted choice that bends black tie dress codes, without quite breaking them.
The trend applies to the everyday too. In lieu of a reimagined cravat, try adding a neckerchief to workwear-inspired looks
When Raimund Berthold sits in the Soho design studio of his eponymous brand, he often ponders the weather. Perhaps this is unsurprising. At one end is a wall of windows that makes a snug room feel spacious. At the other, the moodboard he’s translating into clothes for next winter. It is a dark affair, both literally and figuratively – cowls, prosthetic limbs, a noose – and hints that the collection will not be kaleidoscopic. “My PR company is always asking for colour,” he laughs. Its representative, silhouetted against sunshine, nods. “They know I like black. But we have pink for next season.”
His own outfit shows no such concessions; a pair of wide-legged black trousers, a matching tunic shirt. Only his glasses buck the colour scheme, their oversized frames flecked with tortoiseshell. They lend him a mole-like air, as if Kenneth Grahame’s hero had spent his hibernation reading i-D, then traded his tweeds for something more directional. “I don’t hate colour,” Berthold says. “I just don’t wear it very much. I don’t like mixing colours together very much. My mind, there’s so much going on that I don’t need that as well.”
The parka is one of style’s stalwarts. Though it’s usually the wool overcoat that’s seen as the definitive winter classic, the parka comes up trumps for versatility – what other top layer has been taken up by Inuits battling Arctic breezes, soldiers and mods keen on protecting their suits from moped dirt?
Originally made from caribou or seal skin, the parka’s been through many guises since its first outing in the freezing Arctic: cotton-sateen blends to protect the US army, and more recently tailored takes made from cashmere mixes (aprés-ski wear that’s almost – almost – too plush to wear outdoors).
Today, the options are endless – choose from unlined lightweight designs that keep rain at bay while boosting warmth or traditional fleece-lined styles the act like a furnace. Here are 10 worth your hard-earned.
Tap the parka’s military heritage with this fleece-lined olive green style that’s got everything you need from a first line of defence.
For a less obviously army-inspired take, try this coat’s subtle camo print on for size. Cut like a fishtail parka, but with none of the weight of a meaty hood and body lining, it’s perfect for those rare wet and warm winter days.
White’s not just for the
Thought you’d see the death of the white sneaker come winter? Not a chance. Adidas has just served up this summer’s hottest tennis shoe in a Gore-Tex build. Along with the leather upper, perforated three-stripes and rubber cupsole, the new invisible lining makes the Stan Smith fully waterproof and weather-resistant, so you can keep hitting a style ace come rain or shine.
Tokyo-based sneaker spot Kickslab is continuing its run of cop-worthy collabs, this time updating the iconic Puma Disc Blaze. With inspiration enlisted from the uniforms of desert troops, the 90s shape gains roughed-up suede uppers in an ivory cream colourway, alongside a mesh toe box, black accents and Puma’s Trinomial cushioning technology.
The flight jacket continues to be a failsafe outerwear choice each season, so it makes sense to apply the same G.I. Joe styling to sneakers. Reebok has teamed up with legendary Japanese boutique Mita and online streetwear retailer Winiche & Co for a footwear three-way that sees the Instapump Fury OG rendered in an MA-1-inspired green and orange wool.
Not all running shoes are created equal, as Asics proved 30 years ago with the introduction of its unique cushioning technology. To
Kwon Ji-yong surveys the crowd; tens of thousands of screaming fans stand before him, some waving self-made posters professing their love, many with dyed hair in tribute to their idol and still more aping his unique sartorial sense. The delirious crowd is expectant, hanging on his every word, giddy with joy at his every move. It’s a situation the man widely known as G-Dragon experiences frequently back home, but this isn’t South Korea, this is the third of three sell-out shows at Hong Kong’s AsiaWorld-Expo.
Three years ago, Time magazine called K-pop South Korea’s greatest export. At the time, the provocative statement could have been dismissed as eyebrow-raising clickbait, overlooking as it did the success of consumer giants Samsung, LG and Hyundai. However, as G-Dragon and his band, Big Bang, rattle through their hits and ever-so slick dance moves in front of 36,000 Hong Kong fans dressing like the stars, downloading the apps (each has a branded game with in-app purchases) and buying the merchandise, it’s clear that K-pop has become a cultural and commercial juggernaut, with fashion increasingly at its core.
The garrulous Psy was the cultural Trojan horse, convincing the world in 2012 to dance Gangnam Style. But perhaps a
Party season: the most wonderful time of the year. ‘Til you kill your liver, gain two stone and feel like maybe it’d just be easier to end it all… But while we’re not best placed to advise on your drinking habits, we can offer tips as to what to put on.
And this year, there’s ample opportunity to switch things up, sartorially at least (you’ll still have to contend with those forced exchanges with colleagues at the office party, though). Instead of the standard tuxedo, the likes of Saint Laurent have long pioneered a bolder take: the party jacket. Be it velvet, bejewelled, jacquard or textured, there’s an air of 1920s opulence to partywear this season.
But be warned: a statement jacket isn’t always an easy wear. There are some rules you need to get across before you get gussied up. “Party season jackets work best with peak lapels, as it draws attention to the shoulders,” says Mr Porter’s style director, Olie Arnold. “The V-shape is usually a sign of a quality, well-fitted suit, so stick to that silhouette.”
Also, if you’re peacocking in colour, then you’ll need a more muted approach elsewhere. “Stick to the script with a black bow tie in
Remember puffer jackets? Those ugly-AF quilted bin bags? Well, they’ve had a makeover. Don’t believe us? Just look at the latest collection from British heritage brand Puffa. Cut like a stylish field jacket, the water resistant Foster model comes completed with a collared neckline, chest pockets and metallic hardware.
Do a quick straw poll in the office, how many of your colleagues want to see you rock up to work in budgie smuggler cycling shorts? We thought so. Luckily, high street heavyweight Topman has come up with a bike-friendly suit to take you from commute to cubical. The two-piece uses a crease resistant fabric that is both breathable and stretchy, with added roll-up reflective hems.
Tweed and tomatoes isn’t a dish we’re familiar with, but that’s what you can get if you pop into Sainsbury’s. The supermarket’s Tu clothing line has tapped up the skilled craftsmen on the Scottish isles to produce a selection of Harris Tweed clothing and accessories that’s perfect for the colder months.
Stella McCartney’s first ever first ever men’s collection is everything we could hope for from the Adidas collaborator and Team GB designer. Even if you do have to skip
The 20th century’s conflicts may have been entirely undesirable, but it’s possible that without them, we men would still be trapped in a sartorial straitjacket. There once was a time when the suit wasn’t just office-appropriate, it was practically everywhere appropriate. Outerwear? Judged by its ability to sit over a suit (hence overcoat).
Here we guide you through six essential menswear pieces of the modern day that started life on the battle fields but ended up on the runway.
It’s hard to imagine what life would be like if arguably the most iconic menswear item in the world remained nothing more than an undergarment.
The most classic version of the T-shirt, a short-sleeved white cotton crew neck, first sprung to life as standard issue schmutter for the US navy and later the army in the 1910s. When the war ended, tens of thousands of soldiers took the fashion home with them.
Brando, Dean, Beckham. The rest, they say, is history.
When it comes to trousers that sit slap bang in middle of smart and casual, you’d be hard pressed to find a pair that fit the bill better than chinos.
Cowboys may wear them but so do supermodels, farmers, presidents and housewives.
Ask any group of people why they wear jeans and you will get a range of answers. For some they’re comfortable, durable and easy – for others they’re sexy and cool. Jeans mean different things to different people. Does this explain their wide appeal?
It is a subject that is relatively unstudied, says anthropologist Danny Miller, whose book Blue Jeans will be published next month.
In every country he has visited – from the Philippines to Turkey, India and Brazil – Miller has stopped and counted the first 100 people to walk by, and in each he found that almost half the population wore jeans on any given day.
Jeans are everywhere, he says, with the exception of rural tracts of China and South Asia.
The reason for their success has as much to do with their cultural meaning as their physical construction.
They were first designed as workwear for labourers on the farms and mines of America’s Western states in the late 19th Century.
When a Nevada tailor called Jacob Davis was asked to make a pair of sturdy trousers for a local woodcutter, he struck upon the idea of reinforcing them with rivets.
After a year like 2016, in which the Day-Glo uniform of a German logistics company became menswear’s most-wanted, it is perhaps brave for anyone to forecast what is going to happen in 2017.
Of course, some future trends will have been bubbling away underneath the surface at the biggest brands and retailers since London Collections Men back in June, but which ones will catch on is still anyone’s guess.
Fortunately for you, we’ve managed to find 10 well-informed experts to lay their cards on the table and make a call on the trends and styles you’ll see blowing up in 2017. You heard it here first.
“In 2017, expect to see clothing that works with us, not against us – the ultimate in utility dressing. Performance jackets, combat trousers cut to perfection, zips-a-plenty and even bum-bags will make an appearance in our SS17 wardrobes.
“Also, keep hold of your old rugby shirt as the collegiate favourite is back for 2017. If you’re buying, look out for more authentic styles in bleached-out colours.”
“A relaxed silhouette will be big. Tailoring is getting softer in construction, trousers are getting wider, and looser fits are starting to become more
The warmer months are the time to take things easy. “A key style for SS16 is the more relaxed, straight or tapered fit,” says Robyn Ferris, Junior Buyer at MRPORTER.com, who buys the majority of the discerning e-tailer’s denim.
Slim, skinny and spray-on styles might continue to dominate the industry, but that’s precisely why the menswear pendulum is swinging in the other direction, with designers like Christopher Shannon and E. Tautz continuing to push wider leg cuts.
“This trend is particularly apparent from more niche denim labels such as RRL and Simon Miller, but is now also coming through from more mainstream brands such as Nudie and Levi’s,” adds Ferris.
The exclusive washes designed for MRPORTER.com by the latter in its tapered 501 CT style (which also features a slightly roomier than average waist) apparently went great guns (not shotguns) last summer. Indeed, more voluminous styles are filtering down from the runway to the high street in increasing volume – at least at the more fashion-forward end.
“Emerging styles we are currently investigating are the ‘Parallel Baggy Crop’, a straight fit, cropped with frayed hems and small turn-ups – like you bought a size
Rigid, 100 per cent cotton denim jeans – the original androgynous utility staple – have been overlooked during the decade-long rise of stretchy, spray-on skinnies. How did these clingy, wafer-thin, denim-ish imposters, which are not actually jeans, achieve world domination? They fed our weakest desires for a teenage sort of comfort and provided the illusion of a lean figure, instantly. Somehow it had become acceptable to wear a pair of mock-denim leggings with belt loops and fake rips at the knees outside the house for the sake of that streamlined silhouette. Impatience also played a part.
Indonesian fashion designer Anniesa Hasibuan is here to revolutionize the American fashion industry, with a stunning runway show featuring 48 outfits, all with gorgeous hijabs. The collection was a bold move for the fashion industry, as Muslim women in the United States can be harassed for wearing hijabs in the workplace, and headscarves can make one a target on the street. And in France, a burkini ban was created, criminalizing Muslimah fashion.
A Muslim fashion designer has made history as the first ever designer to feature hijabs in every outfit on a New York Fashion Week catwalk.
Indonesian designer Anniesa Hasibuan, 30, delighted crowds with her Spring Summer ’17 collection D’Jakarta. Models wore flowing trousers and skirts in silk, lace and chiffon in an array of pastel colours. One stand-out garment included an intricate gold lace dress, featuring metallic embroidery at the bust and a fringed lace train.
Each model wore a hijab in gold, pale pink or dove grey silk. It is believed to be the first time a New York Fashion Week catwalk show has featured hijabs on every model.
Hijabs have been a versatile fashion statement for Muslim women for centuries. For many Muslim women in parts of the Middle East, Africa, and Asia, the